F*ck Neutral: Why Beauty Brands Need To Take a Stand
Here at Virginutty, inclusivity, diversity and representation are at the core of our identity.
Our brand was founded on elevating the perception of and normalising the inclusion of minorities, starting with Southeast Asians - specifically, Filipinos. Our founder, Melissa, as a Filipinx woman of colour who never felt truly represented by mainstream skincare brands, set out to create one that did feel representative of herself and other British-born women of colour just like her.
We have a mission to empower minorities and this mission is something we try to embody in every aspect of our business, from our coconut farmers, to the creatives we work with, to the way we present ourselves to our customers.
Brands cannot remain neutral
The beauty and skincare industry has an undeniable impact, where brands have a global reach across their followings, and can offer a strong voice that reaches millions of individuals. At Virginutty, we are driven to empower minorities and will continue to do our research on how we can keep engaging and committing to the Black Lives Matter movement.
Between 2015 and 2018, the number of BAME (Black, Asian, Minority, Ethnic) people featured in marketing campaigns rose from 12% to 25%, however, only 7% of ads positioned people from the BAME community as the sole or main protagonist. Despite studies showing that African-American women spend nine times more on ethnic-targeted hair and beauty products than their white counterparts, people of colour continue to be overlooked as consumers.
There is an immense amount of work to be done to ensure that brands are held accountable and actively reflect our diverse society. There is a long history of Eurocentric beauty ideals which are pervasive internationally, and continue to be perpetuated by the mainstream industry.
Whilst we are seeing an increase in representation in marketing, a 2016 study conducted by Superdrug found that 70% of Black and Asian women do not feel catered to on the high street. A conscious effort needs to be made for brands to tailor products to the needs of BAME consumers.
'The people of Manchester break lockdown to join the global Black Lives Matter protests.' Manchester, United Kingdom — Sushil Nash
Following the Black Lives Matter movement
Formerly whitewashed brands have suddenly started posting people of colour on their platforms. Instagram squares are suddenly being flooded with melanin. In some cases, this feels reactive, performative, ‘trendy’. But consumers are seeing right through brands now. It’s not enough to say things, to post a black square and disappear into business as usual. This is now about making the commitment to change, no matter how difficult that might feel.
Consumers recognise authenticity. They have the tools and the ability to fact check, peep receipts and demand accountability on public social media platforms. As long as there’s a long-lasting commitment to being truly inclusive, and not simply performative actions that aim towards inclusivity for fear of being cancelled, brands should be solid.
People make mistakes, brands make mistakes. It’s how you grow and change from that point that really matters.
As a consumer, what can you do to help take a stand?
1. Do your research, knowledge is power
If a brand appears visually diverse, is this reflected within their company staff? Are brands simultaneously promoting a diverse campaign whilst selling skin lightening products and perpetuating Eurocentric ideals in African and Asian countries? Ask brands to speak up and be transparent, hold brands accountable when they are inconsistent with their messaging.
2. Spend consciously
Don’t underestimate the impact of boycotting a brand, invest in companies whose ethos you believe in.
3. Support small BAME businesses
Independent beauty brands often fill the gaps that major brands fail to service. Countless companies have been born out of the founders’ frustration to find the right products for their needs, and will know first-hand what consumers are looking for and what they value.
Brands owe it to their consumers to play a role in creating a shift in society, now more than ever.
At Virginutty we are thankful to all the amazing Black creatives that have helped build our brand. Without you, Virginutty would not be here. We are committed to investigate how we can best take action to combat issues and support Black lives, today and everyday, locally and internationally.
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Written by Khadija Cecile for Virginutty.
@khadijacecile / khadijacecile.art